Tam Dao
Tam Dao is a highland village (alt. 930m) that is being rapidly developed as a recreational retreat for the more affluent people from Hanoi. Tam Dao translates as “3 hills’, reflecting the more prominent of the local hills. We were here to visit the “national park”, but we discovered that a large chunk of the park had been sold for development – and the main birding trail was no longer accessible to the public.
Day 6: Wednesday 20th March 2019 (continued)
On arrival in Tam Dao we settled in to the, not at all luxurious, Hoangha hotel. It was foggy, the rooms were damp with humidity and the beds like boards – and the hotel had closed its restaurant – permanently. We attempted to have dinner in one of many nearby restaurants but the meal was distinctly substandard and largely inedible. It included such delights as chicken’s feet and pieces of pork which were largely fat – the most enjoyable thing was bland tofu.
Day 6: Wednesday 20th March 2019 (continued)
On arrival in Tam Dao we settled in to the, not at all luxurious, Hoangha hotel. It was foggy, the rooms were damp with humidity and the beds like boards – and the hotel had closed its restaurant – permanently. We attempted to have dinner in one of many nearby restaurants but the meal was distinctly substandard and largely inedible. It included such delights as chicken’s feet and pieces of pork which were largely fat – the most enjoyable thing was bland tofu.
Day 7: Thursday 21st March 2019
All day at Tam Dao. Woke to find the weather foggy – not promising! Breakfast at 07:00. We rejected the option supplied by the hotel, which came in the form of pot noodle to be eaten in the room, in favour of noodle soup (which is probably not much different), a standard Vietnamese breakfast, brought in from a neighbouring restaurant. We left the hotel via the rear of the 7th floor – which, because the village is built on steep hillsides, came out at ground level – albeit that we had to cross a building site to get to the road. From here we birded the tower steps – a series of 1300 steps which ascended 300m, through the national park forest, to a radio mast at the top of the hill. Fortunately, the mist was clearing, and it was nicely sunny by the time we got to the top. This was quite a popular walk with visitors to Tam Dao and local residents, the combination of human traffic and the sound of all the building work going on in Tam Dao did nothing to enhance the wilderness experience we usually hope for when forest-birding in the tropics. Nevertheless, we did manage to see the main target species (Grey Laughingthrush and Short-tailed Parrotbill) and four other species new for me (Streak-breasted Scimitar-babbler, Silver-eared Mesia, Golden Babbler and David’s Fulvetta) – making this the most successful morning’s birding so far in Vietnam.
All day at Tam Dao. Woke to find the weather foggy – not promising! Breakfast at 07:00. We rejected the option supplied by the hotel, which came in the form of pot noodle to be eaten in the room, in favour of noodle soup (which is probably not much different), a standard Vietnamese breakfast, brought in from a neighbouring restaurant. We left the hotel via the rear of the 7th floor – which, because the village is built on steep hillsides, came out at ground level – albeit that we had to cross a building site to get to the road. From here we birded the tower steps – a series of 1300 steps which ascended 300m, through the national park forest, to a radio mast at the top of the hill. Fortunately, the mist was clearing, and it was nicely sunny by the time we got to the top. This was quite a popular walk with visitors to Tam Dao and local residents, the combination of human traffic and the sound of all the building work going on in Tam Dao did nothing to enhance the wilderness experience we usually hope for when forest-birding in the tropics. Nevertheless, we did manage to see the main target species (Grey Laughingthrush and Short-tailed Parrotbill) and four other species new for me (Streak-breasted Scimitar-babbler, Silver-eared Mesia, Golden Babbler and David’s Fulvetta) – making this the most successful morning’s birding so far in Vietnam.
We had lunch in Tam Dao at the Rock café, where the food was much nicer than last night. The main centre of Tam Dao seems very popular for young newly married couples to come and have their wedding photos taken.
After lunch we walked a perimeter road around Tam Dao along the edge of the forest and were again successful with the main target species (Chestnut Bulbul).
After lunch we walked a perimeter road around Tam Dao along the edge of the forest and were again successful with the main target species (Chestnut Bulbul).
Day 8: Friday 22nd March 2019
After breakfast (similar to yesterday) we drove for 15 mins down the hill to an old temple that apparently used to have trails into the forest. The area had been trashed by developers and birding here was entirely unsuccessful. We returned to Tam Dao and ascended halfway up the stairs – again almost entirely birdless. The descent was somewhat more successful with two species new to me (Yellow-bellied Warbler and White-tailed Robin). |