Day 4: Gondar to Debark, Simien Mountains
Wednesday 11th February 2015
Gondar - Debark – Simien Mountain Lodge After an early breakfast, we left our lakeside hotel for the next leg of our journey. We first drove on a good tarmac road to Debark, which hosts the headquarters of the Simien National Park. Abiy and Marcus obtained our permits and we were joined by our local guide and two guards who were all very friendly! It was market day in the town and hundreds of people thronged in the roads as ravens, vultures and kites filled the sky. After a coffee break, we left the tarmac and headed up the steep, rocky road that leads onto the high plateau of the Simiens. After a memorable journey through impressive mountain scenery, we arrived at our lodge in time for lunch. On setting off to explore, we almost immediately found a large herd of Gelada close to the lodge entrance and we spent the next three hours in their company. Dozens of Gelada walked slowly across the grass meadows, quietly feeding, sometimes stopping to groom each other whilst the youngsters played, chasing and tumbling after one another. We sat right amongst them, watching their fascinating social interactions and appreciating the great variety of their vocalisations. They were unconcerned by our presence and would approach within touching distance. It was a truly extraordinary experience that will live long in the memory. When we could drag our eyes away from the Gelada, the scenery was breath-taking. Beyond the plateau on which we stood, the escarpment fell away to reveal a wide expanse of volcanic foothills that stretched into the far distance. A range of raptors flew close overhead, riding the updraft. Both Peregrine and Lanner Falcon were joined by several beautiful Augur Buzzards. Most impressive of all were the elegant Lammergeier (or Bearded Vulture), which we watched carrying bones and dropping them from a great height in order to crack them open. We did not have much time to look for other birds but we did find another endemic, the rather shy Ethiopian Cisticola. We enjoyed an excellent dinner in the lodge dining room, where a fire burned in the large circular fireplace in the centre of the room. Later, we sat in the bar and watched a video documentary about the Gelada whilst enjoying Ethiopian wine and beer.
Gondar - Debark – Simien Mountain Lodge After an early breakfast, we left our lakeside hotel for the next leg of our journey. We first drove on a good tarmac road to Debark, which hosts the headquarters of the Simien National Park. Abiy and Marcus obtained our permits and we were joined by our local guide and two guards who were all very friendly! It was market day in the town and hundreds of people thronged in the roads as ravens, vultures and kites filled the sky. After a coffee break, we left the tarmac and headed up the steep, rocky road that leads onto the high plateau of the Simiens. After a memorable journey through impressive mountain scenery, we arrived at our lodge in time for lunch. On setting off to explore, we almost immediately found a large herd of Gelada close to the lodge entrance and we spent the next three hours in their company. Dozens of Gelada walked slowly across the grass meadows, quietly feeding, sometimes stopping to groom each other whilst the youngsters played, chasing and tumbling after one another. We sat right amongst them, watching their fascinating social interactions and appreciating the great variety of their vocalisations. They were unconcerned by our presence and would approach within touching distance. It was a truly extraordinary experience that will live long in the memory. When we could drag our eyes away from the Gelada, the scenery was breath-taking. Beyond the plateau on which we stood, the escarpment fell away to reveal a wide expanse of volcanic foothills that stretched into the far distance. A range of raptors flew close overhead, riding the updraft. Both Peregrine and Lanner Falcon were joined by several beautiful Augur Buzzards. Most impressive of all were the elegant Lammergeier (or Bearded Vulture), which we watched carrying bones and dropping them from a great height in order to crack them open. We did not have much time to look for other birds but we did find another endemic, the rather shy Ethiopian Cisticola. We enjoyed an excellent dinner in the lodge dining room, where a fire burned in the large circular fireplace in the centre of the room. Later, we sat in the bar and watched a video documentary about the Gelada whilst enjoying Ethiopian wine and beer.